Oh Thank Heaven...

Well, you know the rest of the tune. Though I haven’t heard that famous jingle in quite some time now, I still  remember it clearly. And as surprising as this might sound considering where I’m currently living, every day I do indeed thank heaven for 7-11.

First, it needs to be stated just how popular 7-11 is here. These joints are literally everywhere. You can’t walk more than 100 meters in any direction without seeing one. People back home joke that’s there literally a Starbucks on every corner. Here it’s no joke—7-11 rules the day. The number of 7-11s here would probably make Starbucks back home seem like a hole-in-the-wall restaurant.

One photo. Two 7-11s.

An interesting thing happened the other day. I opened the top drawer of my desk, the one which has been designated as my receipt cubby. Every night I take the receipts I have from that day and stuff them in there in a very unorganized fashion. After 2 months, it's safe to say there was complete chaos in there. Yet I elected to go through each and every one of these receipts in order to participate in Taiwan’s receipt lottery, hopeful that one of those crumpled pieces of paper could win me some more valuable “paypa” (unfortunately this effort was in vain). It was then that I realized just how many receipts I had collected from 7-11.

receipt drawer...yikes. It's ironic that the receipt lottery was instituted to encourage organization...whoops.

My initial reaction to this was a mixture of shock and disappointment. Had I really traveled to a place thousands of miles away only to become a 7-11 fiend? By the number of receipts I’d collected, I came to the conclusion that I’d been to 7-11 more times in the past 3 months than I’d been in my entire lifetime. I’m sure many of you are similarly confused/disappointed. But then I looked closer at the receipts to see what I was purchasing—a pattern soon became very apparent. It's not like I'm using this place for everyday meals; I’m using it for what the definition of 7-11 is: a convenient store. And in this way, it’s been a total life-saver. 

Coffee. I’ve already mentioned how that substance has once again become my life-blood here in Taiwan. If coffee didn’t exist here, chances are I wouldn’t be waking up most mornings until 11:30. Luckily the stuff is readily available…thanks in no small part to my new favorite convenient store. It shouldn’t strike anyone as unusual that 3 of the most common Chinese phrases I know are “wo yao ka fe shao be” (I want a small cup of coffee), “zhong be (medium cup), and“da be” (large cup). When I’m just looking for the energy fix, whether it be early morning or pre-class time, the 7-11 Americano works wonders. When I’m treating myself, I get myself a nice little latte. Surprisingly this coffee isn’t actually all that bad, and it’s far more affordable than the Starbucks alternative, which is rather expensive.

Medium latte, or "ka fe zhong be". And in a Christmas themed cup..what's not to like?

Beer. After a day of enlightening the young ones, with the infamous “I deserve this” mentality persisting, the temptation can be quite large to throw back a few cold ones. And when I do indeed decide to treat myself, 7-11 is always there to help. Thanks to it, I now have a pretty strong knowledge of Taiwanese beer (for the record, Tsingtao=my favorite cheap one). But I must confess that normally when I go there for my alcoholic fix, I can’t but resist the 3 beers for 79 NT deal. The funniest part—this beer with the special is actually called “The Beer” (original, right?). And while it’s notorious for being the cheap beer here, in this regard it surely blows its American counterparts (Keystone, Natural Light, etc.) way out of the water. I actually rather enjoy the stuff (next step—find a beer pong table. Just kidding. But seriously).

Taiwan Beer. It's an acquired taste.

And as if the connection between alcohol and 7-11 wasn’t already amazing enough, it gets even better. See, drinking in public is actually legal here (hoooorayyyy beeer!). You can walk down the street with a little “road soda” and have nothing to fear. This is especially great because one of the 7-11s by my house is actually located right next door to a pretty fancy club, Roxy 99. But since most of the people who live where I live (students and fellow teachers) don’t have the funds for such a club, many of us just end up sipping on beers and hanging outside 7-11 with everyone else who may or may not eventually end up at the club. It’s like a gigantic pre-party outside of 7-11. And I must confess that, after actually being to Roxy, the party at 7-11 is much more enjoyable and social. Considering the number of people who just hang outside of its confines until the wee hours of the morning, taking advantage of their cheap beer, I wouldn’t be surprised if 7-11 started charging a cover.

The best part is that the 7-11s here are the perfect balance of familiar and Western and foreign and Taiwanese. Sure, they have chips—but can you say you’ve ever really tried “prawn flavor”? ( I can!) And of course they also have slurpees…the staple trademark treat of 7-11. Though I haven’t had one yet, I’m sure it’s only a matter of time before I’ll give in (waiting for when I’m really homesick to indulge in one).

So call me pathetic; call me lame. Say what you'd like. But I've traveled to Taiwan and grown to love 7-11.

The Girl In Waiting

I walked to the store today after class. Just a normal Tuesday, thankfully off at 6:30 as opposed to 9. But something felt off. My backpack, which is basically an extension of myself now (as I carry it literally everywhere I go), felt heavier. I'm now so familiar with the damn thing that I can sense even the slightest weight difference or change in balance. "What could it be?" I think to myself. Not my notebook---I leave that at school now so as to save my back ( I love my dad, but sharing his chronic back problem when I'm older is not something I'm trying to achieve). But then I realize what it is. I'm hiding a new love in my backpack; a love that's been passed on to me, now about to date her third straight Hess employee. Despite her reputation for "getting around", I'm excited for the chance to get to know this girl. Hey, she even sounds the sexy type. After all, she's got a dragon tattoo.

Living in Taiwan has allowed me to enjoy some of the more simple pleasures in life. One of those has been reading. I always knew I liked to read, but somehow found it difficult to "read for pleasure" when I was constantly bombarded with "reading for school" (aka hundreds of lengthy and detailed historical primary sources). Needless to say, school kinda drained the fun out of reading for me. It was a chore--not a hobby or interest. But being over here has allowed me to rediscover this passion. Since arriving in Cambodia, I've burned through 6 books, all of which I've thoroughly enjoyed.

And so now I have this Girl with the Dragon Tattoo on my hands. Everyone from family back home to co-workers here in Taiwan has been raving about her. I hear she is riveting and exciting, though not exactly the "wham bam" type. It sounds like I will have to invest some serious time in this relationship before I understand all her amazing attributes; before I fall in love with her. She'll be nothing like I, Alex Cross, the book I read almost entirely today so just so I could move on to this girl.

And the best part, she's a cheap date (aka "free" thanks to my wonderful co-worker Lisa and her generously letting me borrow her).

My first date with The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo is tomorrow. I can't wait to get this relationship started.

My Babies

I walk into room 201 at my school at precisely 4:25. It’s Thursday. I’m exactly half-way through my week; sitting on top of the proverbial ‘hump’—5 classes down, 5 more to go. When I enter the classroom, 8 hyperactive kindergarteners await me. They all yell out “Teacher Andrew!” in unison. And so the madness begins.

This group of kids is my Treehouse 8 class, Level 1. These kids hardly deserve to be at the Treehouse level. They’re far from it. If the Treehouse levels were constructed as an actual treehouse, these kids would be nowhere near the treehouse, perched on top of the tree. No—they’d be at the very base of the trunk of the tree, amusing themselves by eating the bark or something like that. To say this class is a handful would be a severe understatement. They’re more than a handful—they’re a whole boatload of craziness.

When I first learned I would be teaching these kids for, well, the next year, I was a little upset. Sure, it’s only Level 1 and the kids can be pretty cute. But still, they are so incredibly young and inexperienced. There’s no way most of them would have passed a competency exit exam for PREACP had there been one. I’m not even sure some of these kids are ready for finger-painting.

But Hess is a private English school. Even if the kids aren’t ready or passing, they move them up to the next level to continue to make money and keep the parents happy; obviously content to falsify progress in the name of making money. And I can’t even be upset about it—I, too, rely on the tuition the parents pay. It’s how the system works.

But before I could be upset for long, a realization slaps me across the face allowing a new perspective to come to light. At 6:30 on Thursday, one of my Chinese Teachers asks me what class I just finished teaching. “Treehouse 8," I respond unenthusiastically with an air of exhaustion. “Oh yes!” they reply excitedly. “Treehouse 8—that’s your and Teacher Zoe’s (Chinese Teacher) class! You’re first very own class! Those are YOUR kids!”

Boom. There it was. What this teacher said was obvious, but somehow it hadn’t hit me before then. I hadn’t thought of it that way. The impact on my attitude towards the situation was incredible.

These are my babies. I’m responsible for their progress. No Native Speaking Teacher has had them before. It’s up to me. Their destiny is in my hands.

With my other classes, I haven’t invested so much in emotion into my kids’ performance. Obviously I love to see them succeed, and clearly I don't enjoy giving out low homework or test scores. But really there’s only so much I can do right? I can work my hardest during my 2 hours to teach them, but really success is impossible unless these kids study outside of school. The grade they ultimately receive is based on just that—how committed they are. Therefore, I haven’t really cared much about how my kids do.

But with this class it’s different. There’s no way these kids are going to do any kind of studying at home. So, once the clock strikes 4:30, I have exactly an hour and 50 minutes (10 minutes for break) to drill them as hard as humanly possible on things like grammar, phonics, and vocab. And this is especially challenging considering that learning is just about the last thing these kids are interested in. They’re far happier bouncing off the walls, tattletaling on another student speaking Chinese, hitting each other, or shooting me with their imaginary guns (not as violent as it sounds, I promise—it’s actually a sign of affection I think?).

The task we have been handed is certainly not easy. At times, it actually seems impossible. In putting us in charge of such a rowdy and beginner group of students, it seems like Hess basically told us to pull the sword from the stone; to domesticate an unruly pack of hyenas; or whatever other metaphor for accomplishing an impossible feat you can think of.

But yet retreat is not an option. No matter how difficult or frustrating, we must succeed in our endeavor. These are me and Teacher Zoe’s babies (not insinuating any promiscuous activity between me and her…). Since both of us are relatively new teachers, this is our chance to really make a difference and make a name for ourselves.

It’s sink-or-swim time. Or, as my friends in Zombieland might put it…It’s time to nut up or shut up.

you said it, Columbus.

Sugar Shock

Help me. I’m under attack.

Fear not everyone. My body isn’t in any actual physical danger. In fact, I’m probably safer here in Taipei than I would be back home in San Jose. Sure there’s times when I’m nearly run over by the taxis and buses that refuse to stop for red lights, which they basically treat as optional suggestions rather than traffic laws. But all in all Taipei is a pretty safe place. No one seems to steal or get mugged. Bikes are left on the streets unlocked during all hours of the day. Guns are illegal here (though maybe someone should tell that to the politician’s son who was recently shot in the face?). No. The threat I’m facing now stems from a different enemy—namely, my complete lack of self control when it comes to consuming sweets. Or, as it is better known, my infamously bad sweet tooth. It’s out to get me. And while my life might not be at stake, the enamel of my teeth, my gut, my blood sugar level, and the likelihood of me developing Type 2 Diabetes later in life definitely are.

Everyone who knows me understands I have a serious affinity/addiction for sugary foods. I’m a fiend for any dessert, no matter the flavor, form, or size. I’ve been known to casually dominate a severe amount of just about any sweet sugary goodness I can get my hands and/or mouth on. I’ve dominated trays of Trader Joes Jo-Jos, fistfuls of chocolate orange sticks, large cups frozen yogurt and ice cream, third servings of cake and pumpkin pie, King sized candy bars, and pretty much everything in between. My mom still loves to bring up the story of when I was just a young little tot, and how she discovered me hiding under the table in the kitchen munching on candy I had stolen from my brother’s Halloween stash.  I guess some things never change.

Before I departed for Southeast Asia, I worked under the misconception that it would be difficult to nearly impossible to find sweets over here. Therefore I decided to make sure I got my fix (and then some) of every sugary treat which I believed I would be without for the next year plus. And in Cambodia, that actually wasn’t far from the truth. Apart from the occasional convenient store with “chocolate” (in quotations because really it tasted like anything but chocolate), sweets were nowhere to be found. Instead I feasted on rice and noodles primarily, and had basically a dessert-less month (however I was able to ration the Swedish Fish my Mom so generously snuck in my suitcase for the first 2 weeks—you’re truly a saint Maureen Ghiossi).

But even if my theory on sweets was correct for Cambodia, I couldn’t have been more dead wrong on this subject when it came to living in Taiwan. Holy mother of See’s. Sweet sugary galore literally lines just about every street here in Taipei. I feel like Charlie the Unicorn as I walk around amazed at the real life equivalent of Candy Mountain; or Butters walking through GumDrop Forest in Imaginationland (you didn’t really think I would go this long without inserting another South Park reference, did you?). Pretty much any flavor or texture of sweet you might be craving is easily accessible. And surprisingly, consider the mostly petite nature of many of the locals, portions are rather generous. What’s even more dangerous? The prices are out-of-this-world dirt cheap.

sweeeet sugggarrrryyy gooooodnnesssss

ShiDa Night Market, conveniently located basically right outside my door, is especially dangerous. There are so many options here. The sheer multitude of them makes it hard to avoid the temptation to indulge. It’s like a field of landmines. You may think you have escaped danger by standing firm against the urge to stop for a chocolate sundae or frozen yogurt creation. You turn back to gloat at your victim and congratulate yourself on some serious discipline, only to turn back around and find that you’ve walked smack dab into another trap—the cream sandwich vendor. Damn! Well, now that I’m here, I might as well get one. Ehhh..the line’s pretty long. So long as I’m going to wait, I might as well get a couple. Maybe 3. Just to make the wait worth it, you know? And there it is—the battle is already lost.

What has compounded this problem even more is that I typically walk right through the heart of the ShiDa Night Market around 9:45 p.m., right when all the sweet aromas of the foods are flowing right through my nostrils. And of course at that point, I’ve spent the last 7 hours or so preparing for and teaching classes. Needless to say, the “I deserve this” mentality is pervading my every thought. When this justification combines with the sights and smells of all the delicious treats around me, I am simply too helpless to overcome the temptations. A fury of gluttony ensues.

And as if ShiDa wasn’t enough of a problem in itself, I now have to face the fact that many of my students (especially the Treehouse 8 youngsters) have started bringing me sugary treats before class. I’m not sure what prompted this, but it’s become an unstoppable trend. And who am I to refuse their oh-so-generous offerings? Even if they are no more than a bribe to treat them nicely and possibly cut them some slack on their quizzes. Of course the packaged sweets are safe, so I take them without hesitation. But my addiction is actually so bad that sometimes I contemplate taking the unpackaged sweets straight from their bare hands, aware that these are the same hands they used to wipe their nose, tackle another student, flush the toilet, and all but dip in a vat of germs before handling said treat. Luckily, this is the one time when my self-control ultimately wins. But the fact that I actually have to consider it is a bit frightening.

I’ve never before brushed my teeth and washed my mouth with such vigor and intensity. And crunches have become a new part of the daily workout routine. Something has to be done to fight back in this battle, because I’ve given up all hope that self-control and discipline is the answer. My Achilles taste buds have won again.

*I’m not going to describe any of my treat discoveries, for surely it would just make me crave some at this late hour and lead me downstairs for a late night snack. But here are a few photos to show you what I’m talking about. Oh, and honorable mentions for the YoFro Chocolate Dream creation,  cream sandwiches, and the cinnamon bun with cream—all of which I am yet to photograph. But don’t worry, you’ll see them eventually. It’s only a matter of time before I give in once more…

Cookies n' cream at Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall. Tourist trap #1.

Chocolate flute. Taipei 101.

Flavor Field Bakery...you complete me.

By far the most dangerous of them all. Chocolate sundae in a cone.

Posting these pictures was a horrible idea. Mouth=watering.

And of course, cookies n' cream in a waffle. Bomb dot com.

Combo of ice cream, yogurt, fresh fruit, cream, and shaved ice. Sounds a little weird; tastes heavenly.

Century Club

*Note: the title of this post is in no way encouraging anyone to try the century club drinking game, which more often that not (a.k.a. the two times I tried it freshman year) will end up with you in the bathroom worshiping the porcelain goddess. So yeah...word to the wise.

100 days. That's how long I've now been in Southeast Asia. In fact, if my math is correct (it may indeed be incorrect... math never was my strongest subject), I've now been here exactly 101 days. And when I say "here", I of course mean in the greater Asia area and more importantly, away from the good old US of A. After all, ever since leaving home I've hardly stayed in just one place. I temporarily made stops in Hong Kong, Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville, and Saigon before I finally settled down here in Taipei. I feel I've traveled around enough here to make my own remix to Lupe's "Paris Tokyo"--except in my version, instead of going to sleep in Paris and waking up in Tokyo, or having a dream in New Orleans and falling in love in Chicago, I'd say I've had a brief panic attack in Hong Kong, been assaulted by a young boy and a book in Phnom Penh, partied in the rain and explored ancient runs in Siem Reap, stepped on an evil sea urchin (and subsequently been urinated on) in Sihanoukville, experienced live music bliss in Saigon, and taken Sunday adventures to Shihlin, Danshui, Beitou, Dahu Park, and Elephant Mountain here in Taipei.

And this song is far from completed. There is still much traveling and much living to be done. Over Christmas I will be getting the chance to explore Hualien and Taroko Gorge. And then over Chinese New Year, I'll be visiting Thailand to quickly see Bangkok and then head to the water to live to the beach bum lifestyle for a week. But my intention here is not to fantasize about these upcoming adventures, though surely I am excited for them.

Today as I was exploring Danshui for this Sunday's adventure, I was thinking about the possible things I could write about for this blog post. Surely Danshui was pretty sweet. The weather was amazing (especially considering it's December 5th), the food was delectable, and the view across the river was magnificent. But as I looked around, I realized that many things I once found foreign and strange about Taiwan--the crowded streets, the exotic cuisine, the constant eating and savory aroma of food, the strange music and dancing--had all become part of normal life for me. There was nothing all that new and interesting to share about. Perhaps I had become assimilated. And more than that, I was amazed at how comfortable I felt. Here I was, in a completely different part of the world, spending time in a place quite far from my new "home" here, with a group of friends I've developed friendships with just in the past 2 months. And that's when it hit me--oddly enough almost at the same time it hit me that I'd been gone for 100 days--that instead of using this post to talk about an exciting new discovery on my Sunday adventure (as I normally would), I should talk about how I got to this point; how I managed to establish such a content frame of mind regarding my current situation. And while I was thinking about this, one word kept coming to mind: Cambodia. Of course Cambodia and Taiwan are very different places in so many different ways. But somehow I don't feel I did Cambodia justice with this blog. Perhaps because the internet was so slow there, or because when I was there I hadn't really started making the conscientious effort to regularly update this thing, I only wrote 1 post while I was there. But Cambodia had an amazingly significant impact on me. And indeed I firmly believe my time and experience there are what have made my time in Taiwan mostly enjoyable and not very overwhelming. But in order to try and explain this, I'll have to start from the beginning. Brace yourself for another reflective post.....

The day was August 25th. I woke up around 7 a.m. And when I say "woke up", I mean that's when I got out of bed. Surely there was way too much racing through my mind on the night of the 24th to get anything close to a deep R.E.M.-filled sleep. I wasn't stressed about packing or preparing physically. I had been diligent enough to get that all situated days in advance. But mentally, I thought I was going insane. The idea of teaching in Southeast Asia had always excited me right up until the point I was about to leave. I was second-guessing and even third-guessing my actions. I figured all along that this move was the right one for me, and that it was exactly what I needed at that point in life. But then doubt started to creep in. Add to the mix that I started to think about all the family and friends that I wouldn't be seeing for over a year; how this would be the last time I saw my home or beloved dog before late 2011. I went for a run to calm my nerves and hopefully exhaust myself so I could sleep for some of my 14 hour plane trip, which departed at 1 a.m. on August 26th. And while the run tired my body out, the endeavor was nevertheless fruitless as my nerves were still sky-high and I stayed awake for the duration of my plane ride. Then I finally landed in Hong Kong, where after about 38 hours of not sleeping, I wrote my first scatter-brained blog entry detailing all the emotions that were rushing over me. After a long layover, I was off to Phnom Penh. And so it began.

picture taken from Hong Kong airport...the first one captured of over 1,000 so far. for that reason alone it holds special sentimental value

It's hard to think I left Cambodia over 2 months ago; that LanguageCorps is now training its third set of students after our group graduated. Despite the fact that by the time I'll be finished here, Cambodia will be just a blip on my Asia time-line, that place will always hold a special significance to me. In the less than a month I spent there, I developed friendships with some truly awesome individuals, made countless memories, and snapped some amazing photos of breathtaking sights like the ruins at Angkor Wat and the sunset at Sihanoukville, among many many others. But I think that as amazing as all these things were, the aspect that I loved about Cambodia the most was how it gave the confidence to move forward in my journey. If there was any doubt about the decision I'd made, it ended there. Any and all reservations I had flew out the window. Not only had I convinced myself that I was capable of meeting and interacting with new people on my own, I'd also gained absolutely invaluable experience as a teacher. Truly Lin, Leak, Nita, and Lyly and will never have an understanding of the impact they had on my confidence as a teacher. If I continue down this career path, the memories of teaching those 4 girls for that very brief 2 week period will always be vivid; and the lessons I learned from teaching them will remain with me.

I came out here for a radically new experience; to reinvent myself. And while I had my doubts before departing, I truthfully couldn't have imagined a more reassuring and eventful start to my Asia tour than the one I received there. Without that experience, I very well may not have been the same person I am right now. I'm not saying I've completely changed who I am in a mere 3 months, but maybe I would have remained the often timid, shy, and hesitant-to-put-himself-out-there A.J. from back home had Cambodia never happened. Instead I'm the confident, adventurous, and ready-for-new-things Teacher Andrew.

And all this reflection on Cambodia isn't to give the impression I'm not enjoying Taiwan, because that would be so incredibly far from the truth. But it is safe to say that I may not have been getting as fulfilling of an experience here had it not been for the first 28 days of my journey (maybe I wouldn't even have the motivation/desire to go on these awesome Sunday adventures). So with respect to Hong Kong, Saigon, and Taipei, Cambodia has been the most significant and meaningful stop for me. Cambodia was my genesis.

Location, Location, Location

Location, location, location---these words comprise an often referenced adage.  The source? Unknown. At least to me. And frankly I don't care to find out who first muttered these words or made them so popular. It's like not like the quote itself is anything extraordinary. It's just the same word repeated 3 times. What's so special about that? Even the meaning of these words varies. It can be used as a reference to anything from describing the need for a baseball pitcher to be accurate to talking about being in the right place at the right time, and really anything in between.

However these words have recently developed a new meaning for me. I had a revelation the other day. Admittedly this revelation didn't have as much to do with my own deep introspective thought as it did with a video I came across on Yahoo! news that talked about the significance the place a person lives has on their happiness. Of course this video was of particular interest to me because it made the claim, surprisingly, that the city of San Luis Obispo (where I lived the previous 5 years) was the happiest place in America. Say what? I'm aware my college town had a good vibe to it and all, but really it's the happiest place in America? But this made me realize something. Maybe it's not about the place you're living in as a whole that makes you happy, but the various spots within that place that do. For instance, in San Luis Obispo, I could really care less for much of the Cal Poly campus. Perhaps because they stuck us lowly liberal arts students in the shantiest and oldest of buildings, I was really never a huge fan of the campus. When I had the opportunity (aka wasn't locked up in the library), I made sure to spend as little time there as possible. And I definitely didn't have many fond feelings for Tank Farm road, being as secluded and dead as it was. Yet I could write for days on how much I loved Bishop's Peak; or the park near my house last year; and of course the downtown area, replete with amazingly delicious Firestone tri-tip sandwiches. These were my happy places in SLO--the places where I felt totally content.

Bishops Peak...home to many great hikes over the years

Firestone...home to many great food comas over the years

With respect to ShiDa (where I live), Wanhua (where I work), and all the other places I've been so far in Taipei, I believe today I discovered my favorite area. It's the place where I'm the most content; the place that seemingly offers me the most--the Taipei 101 area. There's really little to find disagreeable about this section of the city. However, it may sometimes be hard to see all that is going on there. After all, Taipei 101, being the second largest building in the world and the defining monument of Taipei, demands your attention. Sometimes you're so lost in amazement at the grandeur and design of the thing that you miss all the things that are buzzing and bustling beneath the mammoth building. If you look through my pictures, you'll obviously notice I've been sucked into this trap as well. Even if I don't intend to, my camera always seems to pull 101 into the shot, like a force that just can't be denied. And indeed Taipei 101 is pretty darn cool. It's huge, it's got lots of stores, places to buy English books, pretty sweet food availabilities. But it's really what surrounds this building that make this area so appealing to me--things I discovered on today's Sunday adventure.

I just can't take my eyes off her...

For one, if you're hungry and have too much money on you, this area can be quite dangerous. There's just way too much good food around (and perhaps even worse, places with English menus). There's western restaurant chains. There's places to indulge in ice cream and tofu pudding. There's basically everything you could possibly crave. Tonight we went to the equivalent of a food court. And I know what you're thinking--"seriously AJ, a food court? What could be so special about that?" But trust me, this was no ordinary food court. Nowhere did I see anything like a hot-dog-on-a-stick. Instead this joint had high-quality sushi, a Japanese Teppanyaki place (where they cook your food right in front of you on an iron griddle, literally making your mouth water as you wait for your food), and a Mediterranean kebab place that we tried and loved. Really I could keep writing on how amazed I was at all the different places you can eat around 101. 

But there's much more to this area that sold me today. One of the main attractions is definitely the massive movie theater positioned near the base of 101. Now don't get me wrong--I'm not one to see many movies in theaters. I've been known to complain about how expensive they are, and in the past few years I've seen very few movies. However, living in a place where you can't understand what anyone is saying, seeing American movies becomes a great way to escape, and therefore this place is definitely a huge find for me. I've already seen The Social Network there, and next on the list is Harry Potter and then Due Date.

And really one of the most pleasurable aspects of this area is the overall atmosphere. Everyone seems happy and lively. And each time I've been there so far, there's been a new and entertaining street performer out. Tonight's was by far the most talented and interesting act so far (I tried uploading the video I took here but it failed. Sorry. I'll try on FB and see if I have any luck there). Not to mention I saw more Christmas decorations in this part of town than I ever expected I would see in Taipei. Talk about an easy way to win my heart.

But alas, I have saved the best reason for last. For quite some time now, I had been hearing the buzz about Elephant Mountain--how scenic the view is, how nice the hike is, etc. etc. etc. So we finally decided today to see what the fuss was all about. However the anticipation grew even more and more as we searched for nearly 2 hours for the hiking trail and almost quit, thinking the mountain was Briga-freaking-doon. Finally we located the trail, and made our way up some very steep stairs to the top. And oh boy, what a find this place was. Everyone who had built this place up and sung its praises were totally right. Not only did this place provide a fantastic view of Taipei in all its entirety (words really can't describe how awesome it was, so I'll let some pictures below try and do the talking), but there's also a sweet little workout area at the top complete with actual free weights (the first set I've seen since arriving here). Jackpot. I'm now thinking this place may be a common destination for me. Hike a little and get some cardio exercise, lift a little, and then read a book as I overlook Taipei...what more does a man need? Anyways, our 2 hour detour being lost actually proved serendipitous, for we arrived at the summit at just about 4:30 so that we were able to get pictures right at sunset. Then, after waiting for only about another 45 minutes at the top, we captured some awesome nighttime shots of the city with lights shining everywhere, giving it almost a Vegas feel.

In conclusion, just like San Luis Obispo, not everything about this city makes me totally happy. Undoubtedly I could do without the craziness of Taipei Main Station, and the area around my school (minus Qingnian Park) doesn't really excite me all that much. But just like I did in SLO, I'm beginning to find those places which give me the most pleasure. ShiDa has been great, Daan Park's been wonderful, and Qingnian is convenient to get a quick escape from work. But all in all, the Taipei 101 area has stolen my heart for now. If I happen to live here for a second year, it will definitely be in this area. That said, I've still got much more to explore--XinDian and DanShui are next!

It's all about discovering your happy places. It's all about location, location, location.

Holidays in the Bay

Homesick. It's an emotion all of us have experienced at one point or another. You suddenly feel a strong longing to be reacquainted with all that is familiar to you from your past---home, family, friends, experiences. Somehow in that period of time when you're feeling homesick, you firmly believe the only cure to make you feel better is reconnecting in some way with all that you've left behind. Sometimes this emotion washes over us quickly; other times it lingers over our heads and keeps us in a state of perpetual sadness.

Well, I've got a confession to make. Since leaving for Southeast Asia nearly 3 months ago today (in fact, 3 months as of this Friday) , I really can't say I've felt very homesick. Undoubtedly I've missed things about home at times (namely Sportscenter, my family, and Beau...among other things), but to say that I've been depressed would surely be an exaggeration. I'm sure that things like Skype and Facebook and even this blog have helped make that possible. Through those outlets I've been able to stay connected with loved ones not only back home but all over the globe. It's hard to believe I'm actually thousands of miles away from everyone. But the main reason--I'm loving it here in Southeast Asia. Do I think I'll stay forever? No. Am I happy I've made this decision and am I enjoying this unique experience? Absolutely.

However, that said, even before I departed for Cambodia at the end of August, I knew there was going to be one time of year that would be especially tough on me--the Thanksgiving thru New Years holiday season. As is the case with most people, these holidays hold particular sentimental value to me. Family is gathered, decorations are out, and traditions are honored. It's the perfect time of year for being with loved ones and indulging in fantastic food and drink.

Truthfully, the one thing that had been keeping me from getting too caught up in what I was going to be missing this holiday season was the fact that my best friend from back home, Chris, was also planning on being abroad for that time period. I figured that if someone else close to me would be missing out on the same festivities, it would make it easier. I wouldn't be the only one missing. However, ever since Chris broke the news to me that he was returning from Spain due to lack of employment opportunities, and that he would in fact be "home for the holidays", I haven't been able to stop thinking about all the things I will be missing. Again, I'm hesitant to use the word homesick. But I definitely think "a little bummed" would be a fitting title. So without further ado, the things I will be missing most about the Holiday Season in the Bay:

Pumpkin Pie
Honestly, I'm not a huge fan on Thanksgiving food. I know this sounds blasphemous, but it's the truth. I am a big fan of stuffing, and I think mashed potatoes are decent, but normally the Turkey is a little too dry for my liking. HOWEVER, nothing beats Pumpkin Pie. I'm a fiend for that stuff. Especially when you add whip cream to the mix. And if I can find pumpkin pie here over the holiday season, you can bet I'll be willing to pay a boatload for it. (Come to think of it, if I can find raspberry/boysenberry pie, I'd do the same. Also a big fan of those).

The mini-Christmas Tree delivery day at the Lovaglia's
Really, any day is special when you spend it at the Lovaglia household. I have too many cherished memories of that place to count. But one of my most favorite past-times was the day, about 3 weeks before X-mas, where about 30 miniature Christmas trees were delivered to their front lawn. As is the tradition in our neighborhood, these trees are placed on the front lawns of everyone's house to add a certain Christmas Spirit to our block. When I was just a youngin, I remember loving to ride in the back of the pick-up truck with the fellow neighborhood children thinking I was so cool and important, jumping out in stylish fashion, and then showing off some muscles as I delivered Christmas tree after Christmas tree. And the best part--after our hard work us boys were rewarded with seemingly endless delicious home-made pastries, hot chocolate, and apple cider. Nothing signaled the coming of Christmas quite like the delivery of the trees and the full belly from yummy food.

Advent Calendars
A cherished Ghiossi family tradition. If heaven forbid us boys don't each have one during a given Christmas season, you might as well call the whole holiday off. They're as much a part of Christmas as the tree or the lights out front. And plus, it's the chance to start every December day off with chocolate. Yes, chocolate. 'Nuff said.

The Ghiossi-Family-College-Football-Bowl-Betting-Extravaganza
Us Ghiossis are competitive by nature. Growing up in a house with 3 brothers, I feel I didn't really have much of a choice in the matter. It was instilled in me at a young age. However, I'm not sure any competition (save maybe March Madness) gets us as riled up as our college football bowl game pool. Games that are otherwise meaningless like the Meineke Car Care Bowl featuring two mediocre teams become important in our household. Everyone gathers around the TV, eats some snacks and enjoy some drink while dabbling in a little trash-talk with the rest of the family. In fact, I love this tradition so much that even though I'm not going to be home (and that I haven't watched a minute of college football all year), I'm still going to pay the $5 to be involved--even if that means I won't be seeing my winnings for some time (it's never about the money, ALWAYS about the bragging rights). After all, after my unprecedented success the last few years, I highly doubt my distance from home will stop me from taking home the trophy yet again (and the trash-talking begins...)

Christmas Eve
All things considered, I may enjoy this day even more than Christmas itself. I could go through and detail all the things we do that night, but really the things I enjoy most are the gift exchange (especially since Caroline has a knack for picking my name and giving me really awesome gifts), and playing monopoly/yahtzee late into the night with my brothers. And if I'm lucky, I'll even have a little southern comfort and egg nog--another cherished holiday treat.

New Years Eve with the Crew
When I think back on what I've done for New Years the past...well, 10-11 years, it's amazing to realize that most of the people I've spent it with have remained the same. In high school we normally hung out at Nicole's house, enjoyed a little champagne and maybe a celebratory cigar, and inevitably made a mess (thank you for putting up with us over all these years Russ and Juli...you are saints). Once we turned 21, we set our sights on celebrating with style and going to either downtown Campbell or Mountain View. Wherever we were or whatever we were doing, the group remained mostly consistent. It will certainly be a weird feeling when I usher in 2011 and won't have my best friends to toast with. This may call for a group skype date...

Christmas Day Lounging
And then of course there's Christmas Day--my most favorite holiday. Giving and receiving gifts never gets old. And with all the good food available, I could literally eat 10,000 calories without breaking a sweat or thinking twice. Really this day isn't so much about what we do, but what we don't do. Normally just sit around in our pajama pants all day and enjoy each other's company and endless plates of hors d'ouevres (mozzarella sticks are my personal favorite). Around mid-afternoon my Aunt Jackie and Aunt Carol arrive, and with them comes great company and my Aunt Carol's famous chips and dip---which I've loved ever since I can remember. We watch some football or basketball, throw on a movie at night, and then drink and be merry and play games in the evening. It may not sound like much, but the combination of family, relaxation, and amazing food is truly incredible. Nothing beats it.

Well, there it is. Surely there are other things I love about the holiday season, but these definitely top the list. And of course it's not like I'm not going to enjoy the holidays here. They will still be lots of fun, and I'm so so grateful to be having company over Christmas. But let's just say I'll definitely love being back for the holiday season 2011.

Oh, and if you enjoyed me reminiscing and sharing traditions and memories, check back in on July 3rd. I'm sure at that point I'll be doing more of the same as I talk about how bummed I'll be about missing the 4th of July, my second favorite holiday.

Cheers.

Have been dancing with Formosans (a lesson in the present perfect continuous tense)

As promised, I'm back to share more about my new neighbors here in Taipei. Though admittedly I'm a little tired and not totally in the mood to do this right now, so this is going to be a sort of half-ass effort...something equivalent to what Randy Moss would put forth if he were wearing a Detroit Lions uniform.

PDA Alert

We're not in Kansas anymore folks. Or to put it more accurately, we're not at the Kings Academy anymore--where P.D.A. was basically non-existent as it was "neither encouraged nor discouraged".Whether it be middle-aged couples cuddling on the MRT or young love-birds hand-in-hand at the Night Market, it has been made clear that the Taiwanese are huge on public displays of affection. Today, for the fun of it, I counted the number of couples either hugging, holding hands, or arm-in-arm as I went to work. I counted fifteen. No joke. It's really uncanny when you think about it. It must be something in the water. Truthfully I hadn't really felt lonely in Southeast Asia until I came here and witnessed this phenomenon. They really know how to rub it in the faces of us single folk.

And what's most perhaps most interesting about the PDA here is that it's never over-the-top. Despite all the lovey dubby going back and forth, I'm yet to witness any of the locals kiss each other here. I'm thinking maybe this is because, unlike Cambodia and Vietnam (where young lovers were forced to neck publicly in the parks for lack of anywhere else to go) here in Taiwan most of the youngsters have their own places/dorms to go back to. Whatever the reason may be, I'm certainly grateful for it. And I haven't yet witnessed anything that has warranted me to drop the oldie but goodie "get a room!" line. Despite the popularity and prevalence of PDA here, everything has managed to stay G-rated (which is certainly a relief after all the trashy things I saw go down at Cal Poly, let me tell you).

And I know what many of you may be thinking...aww, how romantic! Indeed, despite making me feel rather crappy some days, I still have admiration for many of these couples..especially the older ones. However, I've already mentioned Taipei can be extremely dense and hard to maneuver around. So when you factor in so many people being linked together, it makes things all the more hellish. I can't tell you how many times I've been stopped dead in my tracks (especially trying to run at DaAn park, rushing to catch a train at the MRT, or weaving through the ShiDa Night market) by couples or even a group of girls linked up. At times it looks sort of like they're a soccer team forcing a wall against a free kick. And add to the mix that these groups, apparently lost in romance, tend to walk extremely slow--well, it's safe to say the admiration typically turns into frustration pretty quickly.

It's Raining Cats, Dogs, and...UV Rays??

It could be pouring rain. It could be sprinkling. There could be a touch of moisture in the air. Or of course it could be a completely sunny 74 degree day. What do these days have in common? On each of them you'll see almost as many umbrellas out as on the others. I for one think Rihanna's hit single featuring Jay-Z should be this island's theme song. I've got to believe that if you were to have a monopoly on umbrellas here, you'd probably be richer than Bill Gates. I've even seen some of the people sporting different umbrellas on different days, almost like they've got one for each day or type of weather. Could it be that umbrellas are also part of the fashion trend I've already described?

Granted, it rains a lot here. And the weather can be pretty unpredictable. Some days it will look like it will be clear all day and then suddenly start pouring; others look like there will surely be some sort of precipitation yet none arrives. So an umbrella is certainly a wise investment (already on my second after my 1st one was stolen at Hess). However, the thing that I still can't understand is how the locals bust out their umbrellas when it is completely clear out; absolutely no rain at all. They can't really be that scared of the sun, can they? Sure, skin cancer's no joke (just ask my mom, who made sure us boys wore SPF 9,000 throughout our childhood and still goes a little insane when we get burnt), but umbrellas always? Really? Even under the shade of a tree? A little sun is good for you, people!

But I've come to learn that there's more motivation behind the umbrella in sunlight than merely avoiding sun rays. People here love being white, and so much of the time people use their umbrellas as a means to keeping their skin color pale and preventing themselves from gaining color. What a crazy concept. In the United States it is the complete opposite--the more color you have, the better. In college my friends actually gave me the rather unflattering nickname "whiteness", in reference to my appearing like an albino. Back home this nickname could have caused some self-esteem issues; here I'm actually thinking of getting it printed on a t-shirt and wearing it around proudly. My my how the tables have turned!

Dances With Formosans

Ni Hao friends and family,

I’ve decided I’m going to go with a different approach for this blog post. I’m not especially in the mood right now to talk about myself and reflect as I normally do. However I will take the quick second here to randomly share that I went to a Japanese restaurant tonight and had the most amazing filet mignon dinner ever, making me a very content and full man as I sit here writing this entry. But apart from that side-note, I’m going to actually take the spotlight off myself here and shine it on the people who surround me on a daily basis: the Taiwan locals.

The Taiwanese are a very unique people in a number of different ways. They are at once extremely friendly yet very serious in how they go about their way of life. And while many of their customs and mannerisms are very foreign to me, much of what they do reminds me at least in part of life back in the good old U.S.A. Considering many of them work six days a week, you might get the impression that everyone here is a work-a-holic. But then again, when you see how many people nightly frequent the many night markets here, or the impressively long lines to get into night clubs, you begin to understand that the locals here abide by the same “work hard, play hard” lifestyle that is so common in the U.S. That said, many things have stood out to me as uniquely foreign and/or rather amusing.

Staring Contest

I really can’t go on any further here without making mention of the locals’ knack for staring at foreigners. Although it happens on a daily basis, I’m not sure I’ll ever get used to how much the Taiwanese just stare at me here. Didn’t their mothers ever tell them that it’s impolite to stare? I’ve noticed that this trend is especially bad with the older generation and young kids. In fact, the other day at the MRT station while I was standing waiting for the train, a young girl literally stared at me for no less than 5 minutes straight. Not only that, but when I turned away from where she was, she actually walked around to right in front of where I was now looking. I turn again, and she followed. Everywhere my gaze went, she maneuvered herself to be in the picture, literally circling me. It was so unbearably awkward. I can’t say I really understand why people do this too. I mean, especially in Taipei, and more especially where I live (right by ShiDa University), there are tons of white people around. Surely they’ve seen more of us around. So why are they so fascinated with me that they fixate their eyes on me for minutes on end? I actually end up wiping my face/licking my lips a lot in those situations, convinced that there must be some food on there or something for them to be so intrigued.

Even though I’ll never get totally used to it, I suppose it’s become at least more tolerable at this point. After all, I have been in Southeast Asia now for nearly 3 months, and everywhere else I’ve been (Hong Kong, Cambodia, and Vietnam) the staring has also been an issue. But still the staring here is of a completely different nature. In Cambodia for instance, when people stared it was almost always followed by them trying to talk with me/sell me something. They were either genuinely interested in getting to know why I was in their country or they were genuinely interested in getting money from me. There really wasn’t much of a mystery. Yet here, that is hardly the case. The Taiwanese are much more passive in their curiosity. Seldom have the locals actually approached me and tried to communicate. Instead the most they will do is look at me for some time, and then turn to someone and whisper something, only to have them then both turn back to me (I wonder if they realize they don’t actually have to whisper? They could scream something out loud and I still wouldn’t have a clue). THIS is especially frustrating. However, I have found ways to entertain myself so as to make light of the situation when this happens. Often I will try and think of my own dialogue for what they might be saying, adlibbing in a kind of Mystery Science Theater fashion—“Oh look, it’s the bumbling American again”; “I bet he’s lost”; “Is that Matt Damon??” (OK so I flatter myself a little bit with that last one, but you get the idea).

Sometimes I actually get the feeling that many of the locals here are suspicious of my very presence in their country, like maybe I’m a spy sent from America to learn the ways of the Taiwanese and report back in Avatar-like fashion. But I suppose there would be some truth to that accusation. After all right now I’m writing a lengthy blog post about all I’ve learned about the locals. So I guess for amusement’s sake I’ll actually play the role of the spy here. Here is another one of my observations thus far:

Fashion Police

Let it be said—the locals here are fashion fiends. Indeed this is one of the first things I noticed when I arrived here. Everyone here tries to dress very trendy and maintain a unique personal “style”. I’ve heard from many people who have lived here longer than I that this style is very “Japanese”—which makes sense considering the historic influence Japan has had on Taiwan, and the admiration that the Taiwanese generally have for Japan (I’m certainly admiring them right now after that amazing dinner). I wish I could post some pictures here or the things I’ve seen people wearing, but unfortunately I’d feel really guilty/awkward about taking pictures of the locals. Perhaps further down the road when I inevitably become more rude/less considerate I’ll have some pictures for you then. But for now, my words will have to suffice (though if you want to get an idea of the fashion sense here check out my co-workers blog, which features pictures of the ridiculous outfits that the locals dress their dogs—yes dogs—in here. If you want an idea on how loud and outrageous the clothing is that people wear here, just take what the dogs are wearing and multiply it by about 10).

The trendy ‘hipster’ look seems to be the norm here. It is common for many people to be wearing decorated scarves and/or beanies here when it is completely unnecessary (a.k.a when it’s 73 degree weather) just so they can pull off their desired look. And maybe the most common thing here is the big-rimmed trendy glasses, many of which are even worn without lenses. Apparently these glasses seem to be the “in” thing in Taiwan right now, because everyone seems to be wearing them (OK so yes, this one hits home a little—considering I myself often wear my reading glasses in places where it really isn’t necessary just so I can look sophisticated/intellectual…so touché).

I could write for days on the shoe selection here. Many girls tend to take this one to the extreme, wearing anything as crazy as frayed leather boots to multi-colored loafers with stuffed animals protruding out the front. Also, underneath those shoes expect just about every girl here to be wearing some type of matching stockings. If it takes girls in the U.S. upwards of an hour to get ready to go out, I don’t even want to imagine the length of time it would take the girls here…

Another disturbingly popular fashion trend here is unique jeans. I’ve seen so many bedazzled and jeweled jeans here (even on men) that it really blows my mind. Worse than that, the tightness of the jeans here is beyond insane. In the past my homeboy Mr. Chris Reynolds has jokingly given me flack for the alleged “tightness” of my jeans (though I have denied and will continue to deny that there has ever been any merit to this claim). But even so, if Chris really thought my jeans were tight, he would undoubtedly change his opinion if he saw what transpired here. The tightness of the jeans here, literally looking like some of them have been spray-painted on, make any pair of jeans I own look like they would be straight from the O.G. line from Sean John or something.

This fascination with fashion extends all the way to the young ones I teach. For example, one of my first few days of teaching, one of my girls was so excited to see my shoes. “Teacher Andrew, Converse All-Star! SO cool!” Ha. Little did she know that they weren’t actually Converse, but were instead the knock-off Airwalk brand (a pair of shoes, I might add, that I was able to snag for all of $10 as a part of a deal when I bought my cleats for flag football last Spring).

As a guy who normally just goes the jeans with a t-shirt/polo ensemble (normally of the Marshalls/Ross/Target assortment), I’m constantly finding myself feeling under-dressed. It’s definitely been a change getting used to all the various and outrageous styles here. I suppose in a sense the fashion style is very Orange-County like. Or perhaps I’d even call it very “Kanye”, since everyone seems to experiment and try out different and progressively more bizarre clothing combinations to stand out from the crowd, much in the same manner the famous rapper/producer/gay fish goes about everything he does (obligatory South Park reference: check). But I still think the styles here are much crazier than in O.C., Hollywood, etc. My brother Brandon, who actually lives in O.C., praises the “peacock” method of dressing (inspired by his love-life guide The Game—basically saying that it’s best for you to wear clothes that allow you to stand out). With no offense to Brandon or the The Game, that method is utterly ineffective here, where everyone stands out like Borat in a slingshot onesie (sorry for bringing to mind that terrible visual).

Wow. Well it appears that I got so involved in talking about the staring problem and the fashion style that I didn’t leave much time or space to detail the rest of the discoveries I’ve made about the locals. Looks like this is going to be a 2 part blog post! Check back in the very near future to hear the rest, where I’ll talk a little about the PDA problem here, how locals respond to the weather, as well as the rather loud volume many locals use with each other in daily conversations. So there's a little teaser to hopefully keep you interested. Stay tuned!

To be continued…